How Not to Cross a Border

We left lovely Passamaquoddy Bay in the morning. Our destination, Portland, ME, for the second part of our Two-Nation Vacation.

We are frequent travelers, some would say professionals at it, so we approached the Canadian-U. S. border without any apprehension. Well, almost. I had considered perhaps a burp but not a stop.

The grim-faced border guard looked at our passports, asked a few questions and told us to pull over. We were ordered to go inside, leaving everything - cameras, electronic devices, purses - in the van, which is why no photographs accompany this post.

It didn't take a Jeopardy champion to see why.

Our driver was a large, tall, ebony skinned man named Mohamed Gaal, who lived in Canada but had been born in Somalia.

We were four women, one young and Hispanic from New York and three Caucasians, one Californian not as young but athletic and the two Good Girls from Florida, one just short of Social Security age and one well over it. In short, between us we fit a lot of demographics and could blend in unobtrusively to many different kinds of groups.

We had flown into Canada but were being driven back to the U. S.

It was five days before July 4 and threats of terrorist attacks were swirling.

Suspicious?  They certainly thought so, despite the new Known Traveler Number on a post-it note inside my passport.

The day was gray and so was the building into which we were ushered and told to sit on a concrete bench-like ledge that ran along the length of the structure. Two men, one young and one not, were already seated there. Evidently they were carrying way too much cash.

Mohamed, Moe, was the main object of scrutiny so one of us asked to use the bathroom. Not until the interrogation was over she was told in no uncertain tone.
Eventually, another agent took pity on us and said OK.

Finally it was our turn and we were called up as a group. Was it the apples the Algonquin had packed as a snack and we forgot to declare?

No way. "Travel writer" was an alien concept. What exactly did we do and why was this large foreign black man driving us? We tried to explain, finally citing the numerous foreign stamps and visas in our passports.

"You mean you get flown and driven around and then write about it?"

"Sometimes" was not a reassuring answer to the incredulous agent.

"What happens then?"

"If our computers weren't in the car we could show you."

Our chorus of different electronic and print outlets must have done the trick because we were allowed to  continue on our way.

Moral: You can go home again, but it isn't always easy.

Seaside Fun in St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

Glorious sun and fun awaited us on our full day in St. Andrews-by-the-Sea.

Kingsbrae's formal garden and maze.

We began at Kingsbrae Garden, one of the prettiest spots you can imagine with its 50,000-plus trees, plants and flowers arranged in a variety of gardens that make the 27-acre site seem twice as large.

 Not only are the gardens artful, art plays a large part throughout. Every year Kingsbrae holds a Canadian Sculpture competition. Entries are displayed with the winner added to the sculpture garden.

 "The Lost Stone" by Dave Hind, first place in the 2014 sculpture competition.

















The Artist-in-Residence program adds to the creative atmosphere. Painter Geoff Slater gave us a sample in the art studio during which we all painted a small work using a limited palette and enhanced by croissants and mimosas. The "of art" label is debatable.

The set up.

Artist Geoff Slater.

Debi

Judy

No costumes to try on here, but we did find photo-worthy locations. The selfie at the obelisk didn't work out so we tried the arched hedge.

Us.

This is one spot even kids will like. There are alpacas, goats, garden cats, ducks, peacocks and other animals...

... a children's fairyland garden with a variety of creative playhouses and a scale model Dutch windmill.

We could have spent the better part of a day at Kingsbrae - word is the restaurant is quite good - but we had a Passamaquoddy Bay tide to catch.
You see, driving over the seafloor at low tide is the way to reach Minister's Island.

Not low enough.

We waited, watching others clam in the tidal pools that were left, until the ranger gave the signal to go.

Almost. Photo by Debi Lander.

Across we go.

We held our breath and started across, a unique experience indeed.

The Van Horne home. Photo by Debi Lander.

The 500-acre half-time island was the summer estate of Sir William Van Horne, the second president and driving force behind the Canadian Pacific Railway. We toured the 17-bedroom, 11-bathroom, 50-room home of Van Horne, his wife and two children.

It would have been a wonderful place to summer, with its colonnaded front porch,

Van Horne's accomplished art work, his collection of native Canadian crafts, the charming Dutch wallpaper in his grandson Billy's bedroom,






the working Dutch windmill and the paths and trails around and through the heavily wooded island,









We hated to leave but tide and whale-watching boats wait for no one. Island Quest was the boat to catch for a whale-watching cruise into the Bay of Fundy.

We saw lighthouses,

ferries,

a lobster boat that showed off its catch for us,

 sun bathing seals,

a bird rookery,

herring weirs

and marks of those incredible tides,

but no whales that I recognized. Captain Chris said a fin we saw belonged to a small-toothed whale, but it looked more like a dolphin to me. Fun, but not what we hoped.

Downtown St. Andrews-by-the-Sea;

What was fun was strolling rapidly about the town - time crunch again - and what did live up to anticipation was a tasting dinner at Rossmount Inn hosted by owners/chef Chris and Graziella Aerni.

Rossmount Inn and Restaurant

Graziella and Chef Chris Aerni.

Each course had three or more selections served family style which made taking accurate notes or usable photos difficult (delay taking a portion and you risked losing a taste of it). Suffice to say, you will find a plethora of beautifully plated, delicious locally sourced selections on the menu.

There was a clubby and cozy bar specializing in single malt Scotches across the hallway but we merely looked in wistfully.

The Sandman was calling our names. 

Fundy Ferry to Passamaquoddy Bay

The time had come to leave Nova Scotia and enter New Brunswick, Canada.  From Digby, we would board the Fundy Ferry for a three-hour trip. This ferry carries people, cars and trucks and cargo. The loading and unloading runs like a  precision timepiece. Vehicles are directed to queue up by size, and then drive down into the ship's hold and park. All passengers must then head up to the lounges found two decks above. 

Aboard the Fundy Ferry

The best part of this excursion, at least for my group of writers, was the availability of WiFi onboard.  We went outside to watch the shore fade and then got right to work catching up on emails and stories. Other passengers watched movies, read or visited the snack bar and grill. 

The Algonquin at Dusk

Three hours passed quickly, and we pulled into the port of St. Johns, an industrial city. We briefly eyed the city as we drove through and finally arrived at the AlgonquinResort in St. Andrews by-the-Sea. How can you not fall in love with such a poetic sounding name as St. Andrews-by-the-Sea? The legendary hotel, like Digby Pines, is infused with character and historic elegance—and we later learned, ghosts. Families have been returning to this vacation spot for many years, sometimes decade upon decade.

My room in the Algonquin Resort

My room on the fourth floor felt swanky. It was spacious with a king sized bed, updated marble bath and calming mauve and gray colors. A pillow emblazoned in the logo 'A' for Algonquin sat on the bed. My window overlooked the hotel grounds with panoramic views of Passamaquoddy Bay.

Is this Pete's Dragon?

Now, the name Passamaquoddy kept replaying in my brain. Just what was the name of the movie and dragon set in Passamaquoddy?  I had to ask Google, and the answer smacked me in the head- why Pete's Dragon, of course. I thought the name was fictional but was happy to find the inspiration was Passamaquoddy Bay. I also was delighted to discover a dragon sculpture flying in the Kingsbrae Garden. Guess someone else thinks like me.   

History of the Algonquin Resort

Before dinner, we met Kevin Crane, Director of Sales, in the lobby who treated us to a pre-tour glass of wine. He related the history of the property and pointed out the vintage photos hanging on the walls, including one of Franklin Roosevelt as a young man at nearby Campoebello Island. Celebrity guests have included the former Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau and his wife as well as Prince Charles and Princess Diana.

The Elegant Algonquin

The Algonquin Resort opened in 1889 as Canada's first seaside resort town. The cost of a room at the time was between $3 and $5 per day. Five years later, the golf course was added. By 1912, the six-story Kitchen Wing appeared along with more guestrooms. The Casino opened in 1913, featuring a bowling alley, billiards and pool tables, and a grand ballroom.

Sadly, in 1914, a fire destroyed the majority of the hotel's original, wooden structure. After a year of rebuilding, the resort reopened with a new Tudor-style facade. Blame the telephone and new electrical installations for the rate increase to $4 and $7 per day.

The hotel closed during WWII. In 1991, an expansion added a rooftop garden and convention center. In 1997, equipment was installed so the Algonquin could remain open in the winter. The hotel again closed its doors in 2012 to undergo an extensive, $30 million renovation.

Braxton's Bar

The Castle-by-the-Sea reopened in March 2014, as we see it today. You'll find 233 guestrooms and suites with full amenities, free WiFi and an indoor pool with a three-story waterslide.

My group toured the rambling grounds especially admiring the upper patios that offered to-die-for aquatic views. We then proceeded to Braxton's Restaurant where we indulged in one of the best   Sounds strange and tasted more tangy than sweet, but it grew on me.

A Strawberry Basil Martini

dinners we've ever had. We began with one of the signature martini's: Strawberry Basil.

Chef Dale Nichols, a New Brunswick native, outdid himself. He began with a gorgeous seacuterie that consisted of Scallop Terrine with bacon and onion jam; smoked salmon pot du crème; cranberry and mint cured halibut; star anise and molasses cured halibut; and Sturgeon Caviar. A terrific take on traditional charcuterie with a seaside influence.

That was followed by a beautifully adorned salad plate.

Then came the most exquisite scallops I have ever seen.

Sensational Scallops

Salmon was the main course, topped by hair strand sized fries, adding crunch to the sensation sauce. Every bite was fantastic. We couldn't stop ourselves as dessert was a divine chocolate tart, creamy on the inside with a crisp tart crust. Then, the entire dinner was topped with a shimmering goblet of ice wine.  A heavenly meal to long remember. 

Our Entree was Salmon

Ghosts of The Algonquin

 After that feast, we needed a walk, so were taken on a ghost tour (just ask if you are interested in the resident ghosts). I did not realize until the tour paused directly across from my room, that I was so near one of the most haunted places. Room 473 is known as the Crying Bride's room. The story dates back to the early 1900’s when an out-of-town bride waited for her groom at a local church. Sadly, he never arrived. She returned to the Algonquin and cried all night long. The next day, friends found her body and claimed she died of a broken heart. I’m relieved to report that I didn't hear a whimper.

We rode the elevators down to the old underground walkways of the kitchen and food transfer area. Felt a bit creepy down there. The staff claims they sometimes see the bellman. Some say he went into the fire to rescue a mother and child, and all died. There is also a story about a piano saved from the flames that is kept locked. Only the bellman had the key but some folks swear they hear the piano being played. Another ghost likes to change the place settings in the dining room.

You decide. I felt entirely comfortable in the hotel, in fact, I believe it was my favorite lodging of our Two Nation Vacation. It's the kind of place you want to stay awhile and sit back. I loved the gracious yet friendly feel of the hotel, the dog-welcoming staff, the superb food, my comfy room and the location near enough to walk downtown.  Send me back!

Driving to Digby

Off and on inclement weather made for interesting cloud formations as we left Halifax and headed west to Digby and the fabled Bay of Fundy.

Along Harvest Highway.

We drove the Harvest Highway 101 which took us through the Valley of Farmers, Nova Scotia's bread, orchard and vineyard basket. Red clay soil reminded me of Georgia as we drove past gently rolling rises of fields and farms.

We passed Berwick, the Apple Capital. The sun played peek-a-boo, brightening the brilliant stands of yellow, white and purple wildflowers carpeting the roadside and pastures. As usual, the Good Girls wanted to stop and explore half a dozen times, but we had places to go and timetables to keep.

Hills grew taller as we neared the sea again and spreads of purple, white and pink lupines interrupted the more mundane wildflowers.

Nothing untidy allowed in Annapolis Royal.

We were ready for lunch when we rolled into Annapolis Royal, a charming, beautifully kept town, where peeling paint, weeds and errant grassy patches seemed to have been disciplined out of existence.

Bistro East was our destination and we continued our quest to deplete the lobster population.

The seafood chowder was one of the best and the lobster roll was everything one could hope for.

 Everything else served is tempting so it gets our A+ , spoons and forks up vote of approval.
















The Historic Gardens gave us an opportunity to walk some of it off. Annapolis Royal claims the title of oldest permanent European settlement in North America - 1605 vs. Jamestown's 1607 although much later than     than St. Augustine's 1565 - and this was designed to celebrate that long heritage.
As the land slopes down to a tidal river valley all varieties of garden design can be seen,

ponds,















woodland,

  a Governor's garden of the 18th century,

a Victorian garden of the 19th





















and the recreation of a pre-deportation Acadian settler's homestead.

 Rhododendrums  were still in their glory,














                              peonies were just coming into theirs

Photos by Debi Lander.

and yellow laburnum draped the pergola.












Not a bad way to while and wander.