Hiking Huashan, the Sacred Mountan of Shaanxi, China

Huashan, which in Chinese means Hua Mountain, lies about two hours east of Xi’an, the city closest to the world-famous Terracotta Warriors. Huashan became a pilgrimage site centuries ago and is considered one of the five sacred mountains in China with its Taoist temples.

A temple part way up the trail.

As we approached it by bus, the landscape dramatically changed; all of a sudden giant granite boulders and huge mountains dominated the previously flat landscape. A sign at the entrance calls Huashan - the World’s Number One Precipitous Mountain. Not quite sure about that translation, but it is very steep and known to encounter quick weather condition changes. The mountain is a favorite of tourists, serious climbers and the intrepid who come for the plank trail - one of the most dangerous courses in the world.

See what I mean by going from flat to mountainous?  

Huashan has five main peaks and 36 smaller ones, described in park literature as “looking like a coiling dragon and crouching tiger.” A gondola or cable car line was imported from Austria and installed in 1996. The 6-person cable cars move up to 1,000 people per hour, and the vast majority of visitors take the gondola up to mid-mountain, about 3,500 feet.

The bottom of the gondola

A shuttle bus brought my group from the main parking lot to the entrance. I looked up at the gondolas and they appeared as tiny matchbox cars hanging high in the air. The end of the line disappeared in the distance, although the morning was foggy and smoggy.  I found the scene a bit disconcerting, but, of course, I would ride.

Riding in the gondola

I felt I was entering a ski lift, sans skis, as I sat down and was whisked off into the air and up the mountain.  The drop is indeed precipitous, but fortunately, there was no wind. During the several minute ride in the gondola, you look down on the super-fit or crazies who decided to walk up. The trek is long because a series of wooden paths and stairs crisscross the mountain face instead of a making a vertical climb.

Looking down from the gondola at the trail.

Once I exited the cable car, I joined others on a portion of the walkways. We climbed stairs toward a building that seemed magically glued to the sheer side of the mountain. The building is a rest area, scenic overlook and café.  Many go no higher than this. They just sit and enjoy the view.

The hanging cafe, overlook point, food and rest area.

Front porch of the Overlook House

I was ready to hike up higher, aiming to reach the pinnacle of the less dangerous side. Much of the hike is on stairways, pretty easygoing except for the hundreds and hundreds of stairs. About halfway up this upper section, I ran into another house with food and a temple. Many Chinese pause and light candles, saying prayers to the Gods.

A closer look at the temple altar. 

I continued my ascent until I came to a near vertical series of footholds carved out of a boulder. I hesitated, but a rope handrail gave me encouragement. “Okay, I’ll I do this,” I yelled up, “ if someone takes my photo at the top.”  I did, and they did.

The vertical climb toward the peak.

I made it!

The view was spectacular, such an unusual arrangement of narrow peaks and amazing stairways. I saw people that looked like ants climbing in a row as they headed up toward the more treacherous side. If you plan to include the plank course, you need to spend an entire day. I’d love to say I did it—but no way!

The daring plank course!

I was happy to reach my goal, resting at the summit and taking photos. The climb is honestly very doable if you take your time.  When I started my descent, my legs felt a little weary. I reached the mid-station, sat with relief and enjoyed a snack. Our group reassembled and headed back down the gondola and to the bus.

The official top. Can't tell you what the sign says!

Huashan is an extraordinary landscape. I suspect a typical American tourist in China would never expect this radical experience.  Shaanxi Province kept revealing untraditional wonders and treasures to the Good Girls. Huashan is undoubtedly one of them.

Another stopping point on the trail.

The trail continues up- behind the pagoda.