Roadside Attractions Amarillo Style: nose down Cadillacs and ungainly legs

Roadside attractions are an American phenomenon.

It's an endearing phenomenon that towns many think are in the middle of nowhere become somewhere when people exercise creativity, put tongue in cheek and take advantage of that wide open space.

The best part is when those efforts take on lives of their own that their makers never anticipated.

Cadillac Ranch. Photo by Judy Wells.

Count on the Good Girls to seek these out so our first stop had to be the Cadillac Ranch. It used to be on Rte 66 but a growing Amarillo prompted a move in 1997 few miles west to a spot off Interstate 40. Just look for the cars parked along a side road.

The installation charting the evolution of Cadillac's tail fins (1949-1963) was the brainchild of Chip Lord, Hudson Marquez and Doug Michels, part of the Art Farm group of architects and artists. They approached millionaire Stanley Marsh 3 of Amarillo, who had a penchant for non-traditional art, and the rest is history. And 10 Cadillacs partially buried nose down supposedly at the same angle as the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt.

The afternoon we arrived it was relatively quiet for a weekend when 2,000 to 4,000 people are likely to drop by. During the week numbers are 1,000 to 2,000
 visitors.

Take a colorful ride into the imagination. Photo by Judy Wells.

The adults of a Hispanic family were looking closely at the tipped cars while their younger sons were "sitting" in one pretending to drive it and the oldest one spray painting others.

Spray on. Photo by Judy Wells.

It's what you do at the Cadillac Ranch. Spray painting is what people have been doing since the installation was finished in 1974. The cars have been all white for a commercial, pink for the birthday of Wendy, Stanley's wife. All were painted black when Doug Michels died and in 2012 the installation became a rainbow to commemorate gay pride. Sometimes a coat of paint is added to give visitors a fresh canvas. It was about time for that when we visited.

Focusing on art. Photo by Judy Wells.

We chatted briefly with a couple from Connecticut. She was taking snaps while over and over, he positioned his tripod for exactly the image he wanted. That's something visitors do, too; take pictures.

What I did was marvel at how people from all over the world had made a line of oddly placed cars their own. I doubt if any of its creators had any idea how it would be received or that the public would want to add their names, colors, thoughts or scribbles to its "bodies." The Cadillac Ranch has transcended itself and truly is a living work of art.

Cadillac Ranch jewelry by Bob "Crocodile Lile.

 It is only natural that visitors would like a souvenir to take home. There's a guy who is often at the site who sells tacky ones out of the back of his van, but there is a much better option. Artist Bob "Crocodile" Lile at Lile Art Gallery in Amarillo creates beautiful jewelry from paint chips he finds on the ground at the Ranch. Opaline silver pendants, bracelets, rings and earrings are tasteful, unique works you will be proud to wear. Trust me, no one will suspect their "stones'" origin.

It isn't the only art installation the late millionaire Marsh gifted to Amarillo. I saw one of the bogus street signs that make up the "Dynamite Museum," but there are many more that survive the wear and tear of weather and paint-overs.

We didn't see the "Floating Mesa," another Marsh-funded project, a little north of Amarillo because atmospheric conditions were not right.

Floating Mesa.

When the sky is the same shade of white as the band of plywood panels across the side of the mesa, it appears to be floating.

Then there are "The Legs."

Photo from afar by Judy Wells.

I don't remember where we first heard about "the big legs" but everyone we mentioned them to, shook their heads and muttered, "You want to see those things?"

Yes, we did, even after being told it was a joke and the official-looking plaque wasn't. We persisted despite wrong turn after wrong turn. Not knowing exactly what to look for, we were driving right by them.

The Ozymandias legs. Photo by Debi Lander.

At first glance, the old Peggy Lee song, "Is that all there is?" came to mind and we understood the discouraging comments.

Then I saw the official-looking plaque and started reading. And laughing. Shelley might be rolling in his grave although he wasn't above pulling a prank or two himself.  Perhaps we were both laughing.

Here is what the plaque says:

In 1819, while on their horseback trek
Over the great plains of New Spain
Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife
Mary Wollestonecraft (author of
"Frankenstein"), came across these
ruins. Here Shelley penned these
Immortal lines:
                         "Ozymandias
I met a traveler from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of
stone
Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,
half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose
frown
And wrinkled lip and sneer of cold com-
mand
Tell that its sculptor well of those passions
read
Which yet survive stamped on these life-
less things.
The hand that mocked them and the heart
that fed.
And on the pedestal these words appear.
'My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye mighty, and de-
spair!'
Nothing beside remains round the de-
cay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away. "
                                                      (1819)

Added in explanation:

"The visage (or face) was damaged by students from Lubbock after losing to Amarillo in a competition. A stone cast of it will be replaced when ready. The original is on display now in the Amarillo Museum of Natural History. Souvenir hunters have scraped off the bottom of the pedestal but archeologists have determined that it was as Shelley described it."

Can't you just imagine a group of beer-drinking students, surely an English major and an art major among them, sitting around coming up with a roadside attraction of their own?

Photo by Judy Wells.

I understand the crew sock marking and some graffiti was added by someone after installation so the legs may evolve into something deeper than an elaborate student prank. In the meantime, thanks for the laughs, kids. Also, now we know there is a rivalry between Amarillo and Lubbock which explains the Lubbock sign from the Dynamite Museum.

Not all roadside attractions are equal but even the worst make for interesting detours and bring a touch of whimsy to otherwise ordinary road trips.

The Kwahadi Museum of the American Indian

The Good Girls went to Texas to see the rodeo, but we took time out to visit the Kwahadi Museum of the American Indian one day. The exterior building does not begin to tell the story of what’s inside. 

Exterior of Kwahadi Museum in Amarillo, Texas
Photo @ Debi Lander

We were met by Charles Ritchie, the Director, who is just the right man for the job. He’s both compassionate and passionate about the center. You notice the adobe architecture building from along I-40. Inside it contains a museum plus an entry room with lots of paintings, a Great Room for performances and a fabulous gift shop. We found it all quite a splendid surprise.

Charles, Ritchie, Kwahadi Museum Director
Photo @Debi Lander

The center or Kiva is the home of the world famous Kwahadi Dancers as well as an amazing collection of Native American art and artifacts. The Kwahadi Dancers began in 1944, but this, their own building, did not open until 2004.

The museum presents a varied collection of arts, books, costumes, artifacts, and paintings. You can see works by the late author and artist, Thomas E. Mails, covering 14 native cultures. Nature enthusiasts will love the detailed carvings of the Birds of the High Plains by Bob Jones.

Kachina Dolls in the Gift Shop

 I enjoyed the many kachina dolls and handmade crafts and costumes by tribe members. Judy found a horse dance stick, probably Lakota, that had been danced with in the gift shop to add to her collection.

Handmade Crafts

Judy's horse dance stick

We were surprised to learn that the dancers are not Native Americans. It began as a World War II era Boy Scout project. These are everyday normal Amarillo school students, male and female (plus the occasional tag-along little brother or sister) who’ve been encouraged and inspired to join and learn. They perform at the museum throughout the year, and travel during the summer and special occasions. They have danced in 48 states and overseas too.

Kwahadi Dancers perform in the Museum Kiva Room
Photo courtesy of Amarillo CVB

The Texas Commission for the Arts awarded the Kwahadis the Youth Award for Excellence. From a list of prestigious invitations, they were chosen to represent the U.S. at the International Festival of the Arts in Amman, Jordan and were selected by the International Olympic Committee to represent North America in the opening ceremonies of the Xtreme Games in South Korea.

Their performances are based on Comanche dances but are interpreted by the Kwahadi’s. That name was given to the young dancers by the Elders of the Comanche Nation who were also known as Kwahadis.

The dances journey into the folk art of the Southwest, demonstrate prayers and thankfulness for rain, the hunt, and harvest. Some honor our flag and soldiers. They tell stories and encourage folks to believe that persistence can make dreams come true. 

Kwahadi Dancers in costume
Photo courtesy of Amarillo CVB

Through learning and performing, the students experience the rewards of good choices, high goals and commitment.  Ritchie said that many of the past members went on to college, something that seemed beyond reach before their involvement with the group. 

We were very disappointed that we couldn’t watch a performance. If you are ever in the area, or if the Kwadahi Dancers come to your town, by all means, go see them.  And, if you are interested in Native American art, stop by the museum. 

Horsepower Amarillo Texas Style

Americans love horsepower, but Texans really love their horsepower be it four hooved, two- , four- or more-wheeled.

"But you must see it," we were told after explaining that the Good Girls' idea of camping was winding up in the room farthest from the lounge at a Hilton.

So we did and they were right, you really must see Jack and Trent Sizemore's Travel and RV Museum.

The 1946 Tear Drop came as a kit. Photo by Judy Wells.

RVs from teeny tag-alongs to behemoths of the road are displayed as you might have seen them used, many surrounded by grills, chairs, toys and sports gear of appropriate ages.

The "Age of Aquarius" VW van caught our eyes, of course, as did the monster house on wheels from the Robin Williams film, "RV."

The late Robin Willliams filmed in this. Photo by Judy Wells.

Remember-this type memories popped up as we peeked inside and "traveled" through styles of the eras like the oranges, mustards and olive greens of kitchens, burnt orange shag carpeting and aqua sinks in bathrooms.

Remember aqua tile and porcelain bathrooms? Photo by Judy Wells.

Classic motorcycles fill wall space in the vast two-room "garage" and all come with signage on the history, restoration process and other interesting details.

Ron and Marilyn Smith. Photo by Debi Lander.

Our advisors were right, it is a find but our favorite find of all was meeting and comparing travel tips with Ron and Marilyn Smith of Chaumont Bay, NY, who detoured to see the museum during their 11,000-mile cross country RV trip.

Museum of America's Horse

 Refrigerator, three-time Champion of Champions, the first to break the $2 million winnings record. Photo by Judy Wells.

If you are like us, it will take awhile to get inside the American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame and Museum because the outside Wall of Honor Plaza is so interesting. A wall of photographs provides a handsome backdrop for bronze statues of racing, cutting, ranching and pleasure Quarter Horses and their breeders.

Grand Hall.

Keep going, though, because there's good stuff inside. The Grand Hall is quite impressive with a large medallion of a Quarter Horse at the far end flanked by panels with names and photographs of those whose efforts have made the breed a success. There's a nifty gift shop and a film theater, too.

Slide the lighted panel along the horse to see the inner workings of the entire animal. Photo by Judy Wells.

On the second floor, interactive displays chart the Quarter Horse inside and out, follow the history of its development and show standout examples of the breed. Quarter Horses are known for their versatility so visitors can try out a Western and an English saddle to see which they prefer.

Race horse's eye-view of the starting gate. Photo by Judy Wells.

 It will probably be your only chance to see a race track starting gate up close. After all, the first American race tracks were quarter-mile straightaways where settlers, who didn't have time to clear any larger spaces, matched their speediest horses.

Another room is filled with displays of the development of America and the West, from Native American life and early ranches to the stock work, racing and recreational contributions of Quarter Horses.

With the rodeo in town, fellow visitors from ranchers to little buckaroos made our visit especially interesting. Having owned and loved a Quarter Horse for many years, Judy was between memory lane and horse heaven, but time was a' wasting so we skipped the library and research center.

The museum served another major purpose for the Good Girls as we made our way around Amarillo. The area is flat, East looking pretty much like West, so unique signs and buildings like this one told us if we were going in the right, or often wrong, direction.

"Blue Blaze" at Amarillo College.

Following the Hoof Prints

 We looked for another kind of horse as we drove around. Hoof Prints is Amarillo's answer to the pigs, fish and jaguars public art projects of other cities. This project of Center City and the American Quarter Horse Association has placed life-sized statues of Quarter Horses painted by regional artists around the area.

"Happy" at Happy State Bank.

We met City Center Executive Director Beth Whitley Duke, "the mother of horses," over coffee our first morning in Amarillo.

What began with 20 horses in 2002 has grown to 103 unique works and still reproducing.

"Reflections of Love" by Jill Wyatt Marshall.

All are stallions except for two, a mare sponsored by Hooter's and a spectacular mirrored mosaic mare and foal at the Women and Children's Health Center.

They have become the object of family scavenger hunts, photo projects and of devoted fans. Count us among them.

"Cherry Lime" by Gary Ward.

"When No. 50, "Cherry Lime," at the Sonic Drive-In was removed for repainting, we had calls galore," said Beth.

Western of "Total Package" at the American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame and Museum.

Evidently, "Don't mess with our horses" has joined "Don't mess with Texas" as an Amarillo warning.

English side of "Total Package," artist Gabe Treisio's clever way of showing the breed's versatility.

The Good Girls Land in the Flatlands of Texas

Rick Husband statue in the Amarillo airport named for him.

The Good Girls, Debi Lander and Judy Wells, hail from Florida, so a trip to the plains of Texas required a flight to Amarillo.  We landed at RickHusband Airport, one of those fine regional airports that never see overly long TSA lines. Incidentally, Rick Husband was a local hero, an astronaut who sadly lost his life when Columbia exploded on reentry. The statue in his honor inside the terminal makes a good meeting point. 

We then picked up our rental car for our annual road trip and headed for downtown Amarillo, an area known for cowboys and cattle.  

A sign you can't miss. Photo by Debi Lander.

We didn’t get very far because we soon passed an icon and simply had to turn back. You can’t miss the Big Tex Steak Ranch sign featuring long-legged Big Tex. This sprawling restaurant became a beacon for travelers along Route 66 back in the day and later moved to Interstate 40. 

Perfect for selfies ans souvenir shots.

Big Tex caught our eye, and we naturally had to snap some photos.  The giant White-faced Hereford steer makes for a fun selfie and is a must for anyone visiting this area. 

Big Tex-Rex. Photo by Judy Wells.

So is Big Tex-Rex, called by the restaurant's founders Spirit of the Mother Road, Route 66.

In true Texas spirit, the restaurant was created to satisfy the hunger for good steaks and the ambiance of the Old West. The now World-famous FREE 72-oz. Steak came to life not long after it opened in 1960.

Steak Ranch dining room. Photo by Debi Lander.

We had no intention of trying to eat four and a half pounds of steak in one hour, but we had to find out more.  Here are the rules to get a free meal: 

1    Entire meal must be completed in one hour. If any of the meal is not consumed (swallowed)…YOU LOSE!

2    Before the time starts, you will be allowed to cut into the steak, and take one bite. If the steak tastes good and is cooked to your satisfaction, we will start the time upon your acceptable approval. The time will not stop, and the contest is on, so make SURE before you say “yes.”

3    Once you have started you are not allowed to stand up, leave your table, or have anyone else TOUCH the meal.

4    You will be disqualified if anyone assists you in cutting, preparing or eating your meal. This is YOUR contest.

5    You don’t have to eat the fat, but we will judge this.

6    Should you become ill, the contest is over… YOU LOSE! (Please use the container provided as necessary.)

7    You are required to pay the full amount up front; if you win we will refund 100%.

8    You must sit at a table that we assign.

9    If you do not win the steak challenge, you are welcome to take the leftovers with you.

10    No consumption or sharing of the leftovers is allowed in the restaurant once the contest is over.

11    If you fail to complete the challenge, you must pay the full $72 dollars.

Texas-themed gift shop. Photo by Judy Wells.

Since it was afternoon, no one was attempting to win a steak dinner, so we perused the gift shop.  The place reminded us of Wall Drug in South Dakota, kitschy souvenirs celebrating any and everything Texas.  While we were thoroughly entertained, we escaped without spending any money. 

Our downtown hotel, the MarriottCourtyard Amarillo Downtown, was a gem. It’s the restored historic Fisk Building, a former medical arts building, that found new life. Downtown Amarillo is coming alive, and the Marriott is in the center of the action. 

 Examples of Pueblo Deco. Photos by Judy Wells.

 Amarillo also is making a concerted effort to save their Art Deco - or as they call it, Pueblo Deco buildings - with design motifs inspired by Pueblo sand paintings,  and we applaud their work. 

Baked potato and filet mignon at Embers. Photo by Debi Lander.

Thanks to Amarillo CVB, Eric Miller, we were treated to a fantastic filet at an upscale restaurant named Embers.  The menu featured steaks and seafood, fresh vegetables and steak toppers. Specialties of the house included a yummy fried baked potato that Judy devoured. Debi stuck with the traditional baked potato.  Since the Good Girls had recently spent three weeks in China, the steak dinner fulfilled meaty dreams. However, we could not fit in even a bite of the unusual, but we hear scrumptious, jalapeño cheesecake.

We returned to the Marriott Courtyard to get ready for a full day of museum hopping the next morning.

------ By Debi Lander