Hancheng City: Hot New Tourist Destination, Part 2

 Sima Qian Temple and the park that surrounds it is a typically large complex.

For some reason we were met by a small troupe of clowns riding trikes and manipulating fanciful figures.

Sima Qian (145-87 BCE), China's most lauded historian, served as royal astronomer during the Han dynasty. His duties included determining the timing, setting the emperor's calendar of rituals, recording court events and reforming the calendar.

His passion was writing the history of China from the beginning up to his own time. So passionate, that when he committed the capital offense of defaming - disagreeing with - the emperor, he chose castration over execution so he could finish his history. His Stiiji, "Historical Records," provided the pattern all future Chinese historians followed.

The park is filled with gigantic but uninspiring statuary tableaux and brightly colored kid-friendly figures amid concrete plazas and carefully tended greenery.

We much preferred the human-sized path, Tang-era bridge and more natural pathways up to the tomb itself.

Debi decided to take the climb to the top to see Sima Qian's memorial and tomb.
I took one look at the ascent and the path to it, thought of my dicey hip and stayed below.

This is how Debi describes it.

The path is rocky, uneven and steep - much more so that than it looks in this photo.

 The route includes hundreds of stairs.

You pass through many gates, and keep climbing. 

 Finally, you find a colorful temple at the top of the hill.

 Behind the temple lies Sima Qhian's tomb. 

After a short bus ride back to town we stopped at the top of the old city for an easy, winding walk down. Along the way, we went by

a children's park,

a small zoo,

through temple walkways

and by fascinating historic architecture we wanted to know more about.

Eventually we came to what our guides called "gourmet street,"  a pedestrian-only lane lined with two-story buildings.

Stalls, stores and restaurants on both levels offered delights from beer in a bag - so-so - to barbecued lamb-filled soft "tacos" that were delicious.

Much, much more, too, but our feet were aching, rain was starting and our energy was sapped despite how much we wanted to explore and wander. We were given loaded "credit cards" with which to buy our dinners (return them and anything not spent is reimbursed.)

A beer and a snack or two at a picnic table with friends was about all we were able to handle.

We were even more annoyed at our lack of endurance during a short stroll through another visually appealing area.

Finally, there was our gorgeous hotel across the street.

Just thinking about Hancheng makes me itch to return. A bullet train in 2020, anyone?

Our colleague, travel writer Susan McKee, was with us in Shaanxi Province and allowed us to link to her hotel review to further whet your appetite. https://www.hotel-scoop.com/wenyuange-hotel-hancheng-shaanxi-china/,

The Silk Road Festival Honoring Zhang Qian

The Good Girls were part of a group hosted by Shaanxi Tourism who were driven by bus to Raojiaying Village, Bowang Town, an off the beaten path village in Chenggu County. 

We were to attend a festival honoring the great diplomat, Zhang Qian, who pioneered the Ancient Silk Road 2,100 years ago. Other than that explanation, we had no idea what to expect, something that makes travel in China exciting. 

The entrance to the Silk Road Memorial Festival

Before writing this post, I did a little research on the Silk Road which I now share. The Silk Road is considered the world’s most iconic network of ancient trade routes connecting Asia, Europe and Africa, both by land and sea.

The Silk Road paved the way for global trade; rich cultural, scientific, technological and religious exchanges, and shaped our interconnected world.

Map of the Silk Road

The overland Silk Road spans over 5,000 miles, crisscrossing Central Asia passing through Turkey, Greece to Italy in Mediterranean Europe. The so-called world’s first superhighway wove through deserts, oases, grasslands, mountains and forests.

Its maritime routes extended east to Korea and Japan, south to India, the African coast, Middle East and Southeast Asia.

And yes, the route was named after the silk fiber discovered in 200 B.C. by Empress Hsi Ling Shi while sipping tea under a mulberry tree.

The Ceremony Begins

Ready for the ceremony to begin.

Little did we know we would be watching a formal ceremony of great magnitude including diplomats, high ranking officials who would present offerings amid a cast of hundreds of performers. 

No sooner had we arrived than we encountered the official group of ceremonial leaders lined up near a statue of Zhang Qian. 

Costume Participants line up before the festival begins.

We were also given yellow silk scarves as honored guests.  

The Good Girls were honored guests.

Zhang Qian

Zhang Qian was born in Chenggu during the Western Han Dynasty (206 B.C.-24 AD). He was an outstanding envoy and explorer in Chinese history, opening up the ancient Silk Road and bringing reliable information about the Western Regions. 

Statue of Zhang Qian in  Chenggu

Zhang Qian made two epic journeys to the Western Regions covering many of the countries in Central Asia and the Middle East, including Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and India. Alfalfa, walnuts, pomegranates, and superior breeds of horses were just a few of the goods introduced into China. Meanwhile, Central Asia and Western Asia came to know more about Chinese culture and products, especially silk. Zhang Qian died in 114 B.C.

The site of Zhang Qian's Tomb is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

My group meandered toward the front of Zhang Qian’s tomb, an inner sanctuary that rests above a flight of stairs. We waited and waited for the ceremonies to begin. 

Tomb of Zhang Qian

But, the temperature began to turn quite warm, and we and many of the dancers and performers started hunting for shaded areas. 

Trying to find shade on a sunny day.

While we looked for shade, the officials never moved-- throughout the entire memorial service. 

Officials standing their ground.  Good Girls were in the group just behind them.

One group of friendly school children engaged us despite the language barrier. They posed and begged to have their photos taken. 

We had to guess what each act in the festival meant, as we couldn’t understand a word. 


I presume, in place of real animal sacrifices, ceramic or papier mache figures were presented. They were carried on platters then surrounded by colorful fruit. 

Presenting the sacrificial animal. 

Dignitaries presented these and dancers paid homage to the altar, tomb and distinguished guests. Some dancers carried large pitchers, other swords, while others simply danced. The children sang. 

The colorful ceremonies proceed.

This group of performers presented pitchers. 

Judy and I watched in awe, juggling to find a place to capture photos. Unfortunately, the Chinese photographers boldly stepped in front of the performers' faces. I must say I found their brashness annoying, but none of them were pushed aside. I guess they were doing their job. 

I cannot begin to tell you what the various dances meant, but all the costumes and performers were beautiful, passionate and dedicated to the moment.

The dancers performed with passion.

After a few hours of this pomp and ceremony, we grew weary. We will long remember being there on this special day and observing what I believe is an important annual memorial honoring a Chinese hero of great significance. 

I felt we had been given a rare opportunity to witness an authentic memorial. I am sure many Americans would be eager to see the ceremonies, but at this point, I don’t think the event is open to the public. 

Following lunch in a nearby hotel along with the dignitaries, we took to the streets of town and captured some of the locals going about their daily life.