Natchez Means Money, Mansions, Mounds and More

You have to slow down just to say the name of some cities aloud. Try  Natchez, and you’ll see what I mean. That’s part of the allure of this sultry city along the Mississippi River. Its graceful swaying Spanish moss seduces like a dancer’s swinging hips. Jaws drop at the sight of Antebellum architectural gems and restaurants satisfy with savory southern cuisine oozing with butter. So, do what Natchez is telling you --slow down and indulge. Her history runs deep like the mighty river and spans many cultures. The land was first home to the Natchez Indians, then the French, Spanish and British. The city’s 1716 official founding dates two years before the founding of New Orleans.

Natchez is home to many large and small historic homes.

You’ll find downtown Natchez a few minutes from the last exit of the Natchez Trace Parkway, the road the Good Girls took south from Nashville. (To find out more about historic road, please see our earlier post here) End of The Trace maybe, but not for the journey. Judy and Debi timed the trip to coincide with the Fall Pilgrimage of Homes, a semi-annual event highlighting the city’s rich pre-Civil War splendor. Historic homes, some still privately-owned mansions, open their doors to visitors for special tours. Costumed, knowledgeable guides don’t just let you into these magnificent abodes, but they tell the rich histories of the sites and the families who lived within. 

Drive through history on the Natchez Trace Parkway. 

Debi reports: Our first stop became the large Visitor Center a facility that serves as a one-stop venue for Mississippi travel information and tour tickets. Here, we watched an introductory video, browsed the exhibits and gift shop, and then climbed aboard the Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus for an overview. Natchez contains an impressive thirteen National Historic Landmarks and over 1,000 structures on the National Register of Historic Places, many within the walkable downtown. When cotton was king, Natchez was the crown jewel. 

“Natchez was the richest town per capita in the U.S. from about 1820- 1860,” said Mimi Miller, executive director of the Historic Natchez Foundation. Most of the homes in Natchez survived the Civil War, as many residents were northern sympathizers. “Natchez voted against secession,” added Ms. Miller, “so the city was spared.” These buildings remain to tell haunting tales.   

Green Leaves

Green Leaves is much larger than it from the curb. 

Judy and I started the Fall Pilgrimage at Green Leaves, a private residence, where we met the current owner, a descendant of the original owner. This lovely lady guided us through an extraordinary variety of priceless keepsakes that fill the home, including a scrapbook of articles about a group of girls nicknamed the Garter Girls. Their antics reminded me of those in the Ya-Ya Sisterhood movie. 

Our lovely guide, a descendant of the original owners.

Exiting onto Green Leaves’ back porch, we discovered period costumes and were encouraged to try them on. No need to beg; Judy and I didn’t hesitate as we adore dressing up. We delighted in the photo-worthy opportunity and momentarily felt like real Southern belles. 

The Good Girls as Southern Belles.   

Longwood

Longwood, the largest octagonal house in the U.S., rests in Natchez. 

The next day we were off to Longwood, an American architectural icon and Natchez grand dame. The massive unfinished octagonal house (largest in the U.S.) with an onion-shaped dome shows its designed-to-impress wealth on the exterior. Only the lower floor was ever completed, due to the onset of the Civil War. A tour highlights the many original pieces and paintings. We admired a rare oil portrait of the owner’s valet, a slave, said to be one of only two slave portraits painted during this period. 

Oil painting and the beloved valet at Longwood. 

Unfinished construction at Longwood.

Workers constructed Longwood’s exterior using a million bricks made onsite, but when the war broke out, they abandon their crafts to return north. You can still see their tools and uncrated materials. The owner’s slaves finished the basement rooms, so the family had a place to live. 

Longwood's central rotunda area in the basement living quarters. 

After touring the family quarters, the guide led us up the stairs where we found a stark contrast. The bare bones of wooden framing surrounded us like a skeleton, and the unfinished cupola teetered high above. It’s a chilling sight that makes you realize even someone as wealthy planter Haller Nutt lost nearly everything. They say he died of a broken heart in 1864 while living downstairs in the nine rooms of the thirty-two rooms planned for the house. 

Unfinished Cupola at Longwood, Natchez, MS. 

FYI: Ghost hunters are attracted to Longwood, as the guides claim the house is quite haunted. 

Parting shot from a Longwood porch. 

Stanton Hall

A side view of Stanton Hall in Natchez.

Greek Revival Stanton Hall, built in the 1850s by a cotton merchant, remains one of the most opulent antebellum mansions to survive. This home takes up the entire block, but the builder, Dr. Frederick Stanton, paid a mere $83,000 for the construction. It flaunts Carrera marble mantles, mahogany doors 2 1/2 inches thick, gasoliers from France, and Italian sculpture, and feels incredibly spacious. The upstairs hall caught my eye with wallpaper by Zuber, panoramic scenes created from woodblocks. In case you think you might like to install some, think again. Zuber scenics can cost from $3,500 to $30,000 for an entire scene.

Upstairs hall in Stanton Hall features Zuber scenic wallpaper.

The house was initially called Belfast, and for a brief time, the mansion functioned as Stanton College for young ladies; hence the name changed to Stanton Hall. Today the property is owned and maintained by the Pilgrimage Garden Club, an influential group of ladies. 

The Carriage House restaurant also sits on the property, and I recommend the juicy and delicious fried chicken for lunch. 

Rosalie Mansion

Rosalie Mansion overlooks the Mississippi River. 

The last home we had time for on our Pilgrimage was Rosalie Mansion, built with red bricks in 1823. Many residents call her Our Lady on the Bluffs because the house overlooks a heavenly view of the river on the site of former Fort Rosalie. During the Civil War, the home and grounds acted as the Union Army headquarters for the Natchez area. The owner left to manage his cotton fields, but his wife and daughter remained in residence along with the soldiers. Another example of extraordinary history in Natchez. 

Lodging at Monmouth Historic Inn and Gardens

The tree-shrouded main building at Monmouth Historic Inn, Natchez. 

Judy and I spent our nights at the Monmouth Historic Inn, a gorgeous property with 26-acres of bucolic grounds. Overnight guests feel the colonial ambiance of the mansion, yet stay in period-looking cottages with all the modern amenities. It’s absolute perfection! In the mornings, we wandered through the gardens and fueled up with the southern breakfast served to guests in a building constructed over the old stables. The stuffed French toast should receive awards.

Gorgeous ground at the Monmouth Historic Inn. 

Monmouth’s famed bartender, Roosevelt Owens, mixes up what’s been called ‘the best mint julep in the South’ guaranteed to evoke good moods. Even if you don’t overnight there, drop by for an afternoon cocktail. Better yet, stay and dine at elegant Restaurant 1818, formerly the Men’s and Ladies’ parlors in the main mansion house. 

Bartender Roosevelt Owens serves one of his famous mint juleps. 

Our meal at Restaurant 1818 began with a renowned southern specialty, fried green tomatoes. My entrée choice followed, a mouth-watering petite filet with garlic mashed potatoes and spinach. For dessert, we shared the Chocolate Decadence with chocolate-covered strawberries and strawberry sauce and a white chocolate bread pudding with bourbon praline sauce. Needless to say, Judy and I went to bed mighty happy. 

Dining in the Restaurant 1818, Monmouth Historic Inn. 

William Johnson House

Wm Johnson House

Exploring majestic old homes was not the only item on our itinerary. We found the William Johnson House, operated by the National Park Service, told perhaps an even more fascinating tale than the mansions. Johnson was a free man of color in pre-war days and quite the entrepreneur. He became known as the “Barber of Natchez,” acquired several buildings in the city and approximately 2,000 acres of land south of town. Johnson himself owned several slaves. He gained the respect of leading citizens, some of whom he loaned money, and local papers eulogized him after his untimely and death surrounded by strange circumstances. 

William Johnson kept a diary from 1835 until he died in 1851. The journal is the most detailed personal narrative authored by an African American during the antebellum era. Today it is viewed and valued as an extraordinary record of social, economic, and political life, especially seen through the eyes of a free man of color. 

A second floor bedroom at the William Johnson House.

The William Johnson homesite includes a small museum on the first floor and a second-floor filled with period furniture. The rooms are small, yet the narrow 3-story building housed his extended family and ten children. The kitchen and slave quarters would have been in the back yard.

Grand Village and Old City Cemetery

We drove over to see the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians, a 128-acre site, featuring three prehistoric Native American mounds, a reconstructed Natchez Indian house, and another museum. Two of the sacred hills, the Great Sun’s Mound and the Temple Mound, have been excavated and rebuilt to their original sizes and shapes. Original construction started about 1200 CE by members of the prehistoric Plaquemine culture. 

Natchez Pottery on display at the Grand Village.. 

A third mound, called the Abandoned Mound, has been only partially excavated, but no plans exist for further digging investigations. 

We transitioned from Indian graves to the Natchez City Cemetery, one of those old cemeteries with tree-lined acres filled with poignant statuary and aged tombstones. Look for ‘The Turning Angel,’ a monument to the victims of a tragic explosion, and return at night. When cars drive by on Cemetery Road, their headlights shine upon the monument, and the angel's head appears to turn. Rather eerie. 

The Turning Angel, Old City Cemetery, Natchez. 

Under-the-Hill

Stunning sunsets at Natchez Under-the-Hill. 

You can’t leave this Mississippi port city until you’ve gone down by the river’s edge. Natchez Under-the-Hill attracts a crowd to a row of riverfront restaurants and shops far tamer than the brothels, taverns, and gambling halls that stood there 200 years ago. Locals and tourists alike sip drinks at the famous Under-the-Hill Saloon. This area radiates a fun, lively atmosphere and becomes especially popular at sunset. Riverboat cruises also dock here, so you can get an eyeful of a replica paddleboat or newer cruise boat. 

Cruise boat docked in the Natchez Under the Hill area. 

Naturally, we didn’t get to see everything, like Melrose, another National Park site, but we did grasp the glory and grandeur of an Old South lifestyle. Natchez stole my heart, and I am eager to return. 

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Up coming Events

Natchez is still planning a Fall 2020 Pilgrimage following the coronavirus lockdown, but be sure to check the website. Another popular fall event, the annual Balloon Festival, is scheduled for October 16-18, 2020. 

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The Good Girls want to sincerely thank Visit Natchez for all the help and support they provided us during our visit.

Vicksburg: Where to find Cemeteries, Camels, Civil War and Cuisine

The city of Vicksburg rests on a high bluff overlooking the Mississippi River, a strategic location that played an important role during the Civil War.

Looking down on the Mississippi River. 

Controlling the river was necessary for supplies and reinforcements, but prior attempts to capture Vicksburg proved unsuccessful, that is until Ulysses Grant marched south of the city. With the help of the Navy, he crossed the river, bypassing the natural defenses, and caught the Confederates by surprise. The Rebels held off the Union forces from May 18 to July 4, 1863, before finally surrendering. The Union victory called the “Key to the South” by Lincoln, severed communications for the Confederacy.

The Good Girls Natchez Trace trip continued as they left Jackson and the Civil Rights Trail behind, and headed for some Civil War history. Vicksburg lies about an hour off the Parkway, a city surely worth exploring. Arriving early, Judy and I went directly to the Vicksburg National Military Park and used our senior National Park passes to gain admittance to the grounds. We watched the introductory film about the siege, an easy way to learn background information about the war. We highly recommend the movie, along with a brief browse through the exhibits in the Visitor Center. We would tour the battlefield after lunch so drove over to the historic port district of Vicksburg and found  Walnut Hills Restaurant.  The eatery rests upon a hill, tables filling the first floor of the house built in 1880. The exterior of the southern-style home looks inviting, and features a wide porch with rocking chairs, tall shuttered windows, and pierced columns.

Welcome to Vicksburg sign

Most enter through the rear, a method that provides a fortuitous chance to eye the famous desserts. Don't rush past, instead linger over these scrumptious pies and cakes. I might not have ordered coconut cake had I missed seeing it before my meal, and believe me, that would have been a mistake.

Walnut Hills offers regular menu service or round table meals, meaning the food is served family-style. Guests wishing to join the table are welcomed until all the places are full. At lunch, sweet tea is the drink choice throughout the Magnolia State. Still, I passed and ordered mine unsweet, saving calories where ever possible.

The bountiful array of dishes at Walnut Hills Restaurant.

My server began bringing bowl after bowl of Southern specialties: green beans, turnip greens, macaroni & cheese, coleslaw, creamed corn, cheese broccoli, fried okra, cheese grits, black-eyed peas, rice, and gravy plus a basket of cornbread and biscuits. What a bountiful spread!

Then, came the fried chicken, honestly the best I have ever tasted anywhere. The cayenne-laced coating, prepared by Miss Herdcine Williams, had a hint of heat. The fried chicken breast was crispy on the outside, yet without an oily taste or residue. On the inside, the fleshy meat burst with juices, almost enough to make me drool. I'd love to know the secret recipe, and could go on and on, but honestly if you like fried chicken, and who doesn't, you must go to Walnut Hills.

Decadent coconut cream cake at Walnut Hills. 

All that food was enough to burst my belly, but I simply had to try the cake for dessert. Plan to share it with others, as the slices are enormous. I can only speak to coconut cream cake, but here I go raving again. The coconut-infused frosting was rich and creamy, loaded with flaked coconut. I suspect the texture of the cake came from divine inspiration. Even now, the memory lingers.

Cedar Hill Cemetery and Battlefield Park

Visit Vicksburg generously arranged a Vicksburg guide for us. He would give us a deeper understanding of the battles within the Military Park. But, first, we drove to Cedar Hill Cemetery, to see the grave of “Old Douglas”, a camel (yes a camel), who served in the Civil War.

Mississippi Marker in Cedar Hill Cemetery 

The story of Old Douglas is one of my favorites ( please read the full story here). To recap, the camel, part of the US Camel Corps, traveled from Texas to Mississippi with a soldier sent home at the start of the Civil War. William Hargrove enlisted in the 47th Regiment and brought along Douglas. The camel carried the musical instruments between battles and became the beloved mascot of the Regiment. Sadly, Old Douglas was killed by a Yankee sharpshooter during the siege of Vicksburg. He is remembered with a grave marker, a most unusual sight but one I find endearing.

Grave marker for Old Douglas, the camel in Cedar Hill Cemetery.

The Vicksburg National Military Park ranks as the most visited site in Mississippi. To save time and confusion driving around the immense grounds, hire a guide (at the visitor center) to join you in your car. Ours was a walking encyclopedia with knowledge about the battles, the importance of topography, and what happened to those in the town. 

Open battleground in front of the Illinois Monument, Vicksburg National Military Park. 

Canon on Vicksburg National Military Park.

The Illinois Monument in Vicksburg is a one-quarter sized copy of the Parthenon in Rome.

We stopped at the most iconic statues and monuments, the largest is he Illinois Monument,  a one-fourth sized copy of the Parthenon in Rome. The view from the top of the sites’ 47 steps, one for each day of the siege, stirs many emotions. The interior displays sixty bronze tablets naming all 36,325 Illinois soldiers who participated in the Vicksburg campaign.

The Shirley House lies within Vicksburg National Military Park.

Next door sits the Shirley House. The now restored house is the only surviving Civil War-era structure on the battlefield. One of the fascinating but often unknown stories, as told by our guide, featured the owner's son. He enlisted with the Union troops from the front porch of the house. Mining tunnels underneath the Confederate lines was initiated from this area.  

Driving on, you come to the USS Cairo Gunboat Museum and restroom. Be sure to stop and see the Cairo, the only remaining example of a City Class ironclad battleship. The USS Cairo Museum tells the story of its recovery and artifacts show what life on board the Navy vessel was like. Fascinating stuff!!

 

Remains of the USS Cairo, an ironclad battleship. 

After completing our tour, we drove to our Bed & Breakfast, the Mansion at Cedar Grove, a magnificent property including five acres of beautifully manicured gardens. The surroundings immediately put us into a carefree mood. We indulged in the gracious charm of the Antebellum (1852) estate, honestly an attraction on its own.

Judy slept in the General Grant room, where General Grant once slept, and include 90 percent original furnishings. I enjoyed the lovely General Sherman room upstairs. The original owner's wife, Elizabeth Klein, was a niece of General Sherman. While the house was bombarded from the river (you can see some remaining canon balls in the walls), it survived intact. The staff offer tours of the intriguing property. FYI-Cedar Grove is the kind of B&B you want to linger in for a few nights, consider a longer visit.

The General Grant room in Cedar Grove Mansion with original furnishings. 

Period furnishings in a parlor at Cedar Grove Mansion.

Many original gasoliers (gas lights) hang in Cedar Grove Mansion. 

Looking down on the gardens at the front entrance to Cedar Grove mansion.
Photo @Debi Lander

Café Anchuca

For dinner, we drove nearby and found a street-side historical marker standing in front of a grand Greek Revival columned home. The sign explains that the landmark goes by the name Anchuca, a Choctaw Indian word meaning "happy home." Joseph Emory Davis, eldest brother to Confederate President Jefferson Davis, owned a nearby plantation but also lived at Anchuca until he died in 1870. Jefferson Davis was reunited with his brother (and father figure) at this home in January 1869. The town's legend testifies that during this stay, Jefferson Davis spoke to friends and neighbors from Anchuca's front balcony, his last appearance in Vicksburg.

The Anchuca Mansion is also a Bed and Breakfast Inn and includes Café Anchuca, a fine dining restaurant off to the rear. It attracts locals and tourists alike: a proper place to celebrate a birthday or anniversary. Walk around the side of the house to enter the southern-style garden room/restaurant.

Southern Spreads appetizer at Cafe Anchuca in Vicksburg

Judy and I, ready for happy hour, so perused the cocktail menu. I chose a gin and tonic, needing a refreshing drink after a long day. Judy decided on a martini. Our cocktails paired nicely with the appetizer called Southern Spreads: a tray with pimento cheese, butterbean hummus, and house bread. You can never go wrong with pimento cheese, a traditional southern spread, but butterbean hummus became a delightful new surprise. Thick and creamy with a subtle spice.

I ordered the special of the day: scallops with garlic mashed potatoes and creamed spinach for my entree. The scallops came perfectly cooked, not overcooked and rubbery, but very tender. I barely need to chew! Judy ordered the Mississippi farm-raised catfish with creole Hoppin John and creamed spinach. She, too, enjoyed it, but we both devoured our spinach servings! Since we had dessert at lunch, we skipped it in the evening.

Scallops with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach at Cafe Anchuca. 

Mississippi Catfish, a Delta favorite. 

Formal Dining Room at Cafe Anchuca in Vicksburg.

Before leaving Anchuca, we peeked into the formal dining room, bursting with antiques and elegance, the ambiance of old money. We returned to Cedar Grove to call it a night, but I climbed up to the top floor where a balcony provided panoramic views of the garden and river.

The next morning, we enjoyed breakfast at Cedar Grove, but felt sad to leave this enchanted setting. We set off to see the 32 riverside murals down by the waterfront. They tell a pictorial history of the city and nearby locations. We couldn't help but notice a riverboat  docked nearby, a cruise line that brings many visitors to Vicksburg.

A Vicksburg Mural. 

A Mississippi Riverboat docked in Vicksburg. 

We didn’t have time to visit the Old Courthouse Museum or tour Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum, the first place Coca-Cola was ever bottled. Vicksburg could have kept us busy another day and night, especially if we’d been interested in gambling. Casinos do big business in town.

Windsor Ruins

Instead, we headed toward the Windsor Ruins near Port Gibson, getting a bit lost on backroads in the kudzu covered territory. The ruins are all that remain of what was once a palatial mansion, but they make a haunting sight and are a favorite of photographers.  

The Windsor Ruins are a favorite of photographers. 

Flower growing among the Windsor Ruins.

Close-up of the iron work at the Windsor Ruins.

For more information: https://visitvicksburg.com

Thanks to VisitVicksburg.com for a wonderful visit.